Mounting LEDs in an HO scale cab isn’t always straightforward. In this post, I walk through how I installed a warm white LED in the cab of my Florida East Coast 1200 switcher using UV resin for a quick, durable hold—and share tips for managing tricky fits and clean wire routing.
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Upgrading the Florida East Coast switcher lights from incandescent to LED was a simple but important step before installing DCC. This post covers the wiring basics, choosing resistors, testing, and preparing the LEDs for installation inside the locomotive.
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In this post, I walk through stripping the factory logic board from a Pro 2000 SW1200 switcher: the tools you need, how to cut each wire flush, popping out the board tabs, and organizing the pickup and motor leads. Follow these steps to prep your switcher for an easy DCC decoder install.
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Just a little strategic oil and grease can make a huge difference in how smoothly your locomotive runs. In this post, I walked through a real-life rebuild of an HO scale switcher and shared simple maintenance tips that anyone can use to keep their engines quiet, efficient, and reliable.
Watch as I swap out those dated friction-bearing side frames for sleek roller-bearing trucks on my FEC SW1200. Along the way, I’ll share a few lessons—like why a good pair of tweezers is worth its weight in gold—and a couple of pitfalls you’ll want to avoid. If you’ve been thinking about modernizing your roster, this project might be just the nudge you need.
If you’ve ever hesitated to tackle a detail upgrade, this is your sign to jump in. Replacing the side trucks on your EMD switcher isn’t just doable—it’s rewarding. In this post, I’ll show you exactly how I cleaned, prepped, and installed these snap-on trucks so you can try it yourself and see how much difference it makes.
Ever wonder why your locomotive starts running rough even after you’ve “oiled it up real good”? You’re not alone. In this post (and video), I’ll show you why more isn’t always better when it comes to lubrication—and share a simple cleaning routine that keeps your engine rolling smooth without the grime.
Removing side trucks doesn’t have to be scary. All you need is a trusty pair of tweezers and a bit of patience. Follow along as I show you how to clip off those trucks one at a time, protect the delicate copper pickup plate, and prime your model for a fresh set of roller bearings.
3D prints might come out perfect—but sometimes perfect isn’t what we’re after. Here’s why I ditch the airbrush and pick up a cheap plastic brush to bring character to my HO-scale side frames.
In this hands-on tutorial, I’ll show you how to swap out those old friction trucks for 3D-printed roller bearing trucks on your Proto 2000 SW1200. You’ll learn how to clean up supports with an angled nail clipper, wet-sand safely, and even tidy your workspace with a small handheld vacuum. No airbrush required—just a few simple tools you probably already have.